On the back of every cosmetic product is a list of often incomprehensible names, a mix of Latin and English. This list, called INCI, nevertheless tells the truth about what you are applying. Learning to read it sets you free: you choose based on facts, not marketing promises.
What is the INCI list?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is an international nomenclature that assigns each ingredient a unique name, identical from one country to another. The same active ingredient therefore has the same name on a French, Italian, or Japanese product, making the composition readable anywhere in the world.
This list is mandatory and regulated. It guarantees transparency, provided you know how to read it.
The golden rule: descending order
Ingredients are listed in descending order by quantity. The first name is the most present in the formula, the last the least present. This rule gives you immediate information: an active ingredient highlighted on the front of the packaging but pushed to the end of the list is probably present only in a very small amount.
There is one exception: below a certain threshold, ingredients may be listed in any order. The hierarchy is therefore mainly reliable for the first names on the list.
Pointers to help you find your way
A few conventions help decode a list quickly.
- Latin names most often refer to plant-based ingredients, such as oils and plant extracts. For example, coffee appears under a Latin name.
- English names generally refer to processed or synthetic ingredients.
- Water appears under the name Aqua, often at the top of the list in water-based formulas.
- Fragrances and regulated allergens appear at the end of the list, under specific names.
Common misconceptions to put into perspective
Reading an INCI list also means being wary of shortcuts. Not everything with a complicated name is dangerous, and not everything that sounds natural is necessarily better tolerated.
A reassuring Latin name may refer to an ingredient that sensitive skin does not tolerate well, while a technical name may correspond to an active ingredient that is perfectly safe and useful. The length of a list says nothing about its quality either: a short formula is not automatically better than a more complete one. The right approach is to judge the whole, not an isolated word taken out of context.
Our approach to transparency
We create formulas packed with organic active ingredients, free from components harmful to the skin, artificial preservatives, and genetically modified ingredients. Above all, we explain the role of each ingredient rather than leaving it hidden behind an obscure name.
Our ingredients page presents the origin and benefit of each active ingredient, from coffee to chamomile to aloe vera.
To go further, understanding labels helps cross-check the information on the INCI list. Our article on organic labels completes this guide.
